Leaving Kinlochbervie at 1200 to catch a south going tide we sailed towards Loch Nedd in Eddrachillis Bay. Passing the privately owned Handa Island, a major bird sanctuary administered by the Scottish Wildlife Trust, we were captivated by the sheer numbers of guillemots, razorbills, terns, puffins and Skuas, swooping and diving in the deep blue waters. Dodging in through the Badcall Islands where there were some settled anchorage spots we still decided that Loch Nedd was our destination. I think the name of the Badcall Islands put me off! Loch Nedd was delightful, sheltered and calm but we only stayed the one night as we wanted to catch the tide down to Loch Roe. We passed the mighty Old Man of Stoer at a good pace, watched some intrepid climbers, hauling themselves up the narrow gullies, crevices and holds with ropes. It was a bit murky on the sail South but the weather cleared as we headed into Loch Roe and we anchored in Upper Loch.
Mean angry rocks
Loch Nedd Entrance
Whimbrel Loch Nedd
What a treat this turned out to be. We had the anchorage to ourselves, a few visits from a pleasure boat a colony of inquisitive seals and a family of otters. Next morning we took the dinghy ashore and enjoyed a walk across the Sutherland uplands to Loch Inver. A picnic amongst the rocks and a couple of tinnies purchased from the local spar enjoyed whilst overlooking the river in the warm sun gave us a most enjoyable day. We so loved this tranquil loch we stayed another day and enjoyed a walk north to the Caribbean beaches we had seen on our sail south. A picnic on the beach and a paddle in one of the little bays gave us another beautiful day.
On the way back we passed an old mill. Settled in a remote location over a steeply running burn, we wondered how on earth people from the local areas ferried their cargoes of corn and wheat for milling. The general principle of this type of mill (Assynt) is where the power to drive the grinding stones comes from horizontal paddles rather than from the power of the water. The grinding stones for this mill were quarried from Suilven, the spectacular dominating hill in the area. However, it was miles away and the legend goes that having dressed the stones on site, the mill owner brought them to the sea, a trek of at least 6 miles before being rowed around to the where the burn for the mill enters the sea, a further 5 miles. They were then hauled up a steep little slope and placed on the mill. This was all in the 18 century…how did they manage?
Loch Roe
Lochan Saile
The old water Mill
Nick at the Mill
Tingly toes
Lunch stop (spot Ali)
Entrance to Loch Roe
Suilven
Reluctantly we left this, our favourite anchorage so far and headed across the Minch to Scalpay in the Outer Hebrides.
We left at 0900 and with slightly fickle winds motorsailed much of the way. As we passed the Shiants on the inner passage we were again entertained by the myriad of birds and just as we entered the sound of Scalpay we saw a huge hump backed whale, gracefully making its way east. Concentrating on keeping a straight line under the Scalpay bridge (it has a 19mtr clearance – we are 17mtrs!), we were cheered by some onlookers before turning into the tiny working harbour of Scalpay on Harris.
2nd June was Nicks birthday and we planned a treat or 2. The summer had finally arrived in Scotland! The sun was out and the temperature rose to 17 degrees so we packed a picnic and walked out to the Eilean Glas Lighthouse. A wonderful walk over the moors which were surprisingly dry and a most welcome cup of coffee at the lighthouse itself run by a chatty chap. He has to cart all his supplies from East Loch Tarbert to the light house by Shanks’s pony so any willing passerby or visitor is often asked to assist. It’s a 7 mile walk! Then a picnic overlooking the flat calm Minch before meandering back to the harbour via yet another Bonnie Prince Charlie’s cave hideout. Supper out was at the Harris Cuisine café on Scalpay – that was a real treat!
We had in the back of our minds that we needed a trip South to catch up with family and sort out the car so after a fair amount of deliberation and not a few changes we set ourselves a schedule to sail to Castlebay on Barra where we felt it would be safe to leave Whimbrel for a couple of weeks.
We only managed to visit East Loch Tarbert on Harris last year so we were really looking forward to spending more time here. The outer Hebrides runs parallel to the mainland and protects the coast from much of the ocean storms so we decided we would stick to the East Coast and where possible visit the west coast by bus and walking. The savage indentations of the east coast and the barren nature of the rocks gives this eastern side the most hauntingly beautiful and secretive landscape. Most of the Caribbean sands and turquoise waters are on the western coast and the richer soils and inhabitants tend to gather on this western side.
We were so lucky with the weather and sailing down the east coast of the outer Hebrides gave us the best sailing of our trip so far. What a wonderful way to see these remote, beautiful islands and explore a little of their character in anchorages and harbours. After leaving Scalpay (Scallop island) at 1000, we sailed the 24 miles to Loch Maddy on North Uist and for the first time we raised the parasail in a gentle 8 knots of wind. She settled beautifully on a beam reach and Nick decided to fly the drone. He captured some amazing footage although his heart rate shot through the roof to 134 as he was trying to land the drone back on board. He rated the flight one of his most exciting to date.
shiant Islands
Scalpay Bridge 19m clearance
Scalpay North Harbour
Eilean Glas Light House
We stayed the one night in Loch Maddy, and enjoyed the company of Steve Huckvale and his crew on board his Southerly 42 Arcarius and also met Bob from Rosinis, a solo sailor on a Rustler 36. It was a super evening and we left the next morning 4th June in stronger winds with a reefed main and headsail heading for Loch Skipport on South Uist. This loch reaches deep into South Uist and meeting with Loch Bee actually cuts the island in two. We anchored in the remote and beautiful anchorage in Caolas Mor with the only other yacht, Rosinis, for company. It is a large natural pool, just next to Wizard Pond, and with 11 mtrs under the keel and a deep muddy bottom, it was easy to lie at anchor overnight with no concerns. We watched a family of otters fishing just off the point just before they were beset by crows and jackdaws, both of whom were intent on stealing one of the kits from its mothers mouth. Thankfully the birds remained hungry and the otters reached their nest safely. A short hop took us to Loch Boisdale, further south on Uist for an evening alongside and a chance to use the laundry facilities. This poor harbour has just lost its ferry from the mainland (Mallaig) and consequently looking very dejected and empty. I’m really not sure how some of these small communities can survive without the ferries providing both a tourist and supplies lifeline. Political comment coming up – Scottish Government what are you thinking of and what are the consequences for the lives of these Islanders??? (sorry rant over)
Setting off in bright sunshine on Tuesday 6th June we had another glorious gentle sail with the parasail up. Had to remember how to gybe her as the winds were from the north but the downwind angle was just sooo pleasant. Bob, our friend from Rosinis, who was also travelling south towards Castlebay took some stunning photos for us and we arrived 20 miles later at the harbour, still in glorious sunshine.
We spent a delightful couple of days wandering around Barra and tucked up in the innermost pontoon we felt safe to leave Whimbrel in the capable and very efficient hands of the marina staff. This marina has just become a community owned facility and the owners are really trying to make it a hospitable and effective stopping point for yachts journeying North and South on the Outer Hebrides. They have succeeded so far and are still looking for other ways of improving their service.
The interlude: Thursday 7th June to Tuesday evening 20th June.
We took the ferry to Oban, a bus to Ardfern, collected the car, stayed with Mark my cousin overnight then drove down to London to see the children, then onto Fareham to stay with my sister. It was quite a trip, and we spent an enjoyable few days on the hot south coast with Caroline and Ross, seeing mum and all our lovely family.
Our trip back took us a good couple of days again and we were looking forward to exploring more of the Outer Hebrides…..however the weather beat us again and we left early on 21 June for Gallanach Bay on the Isle of Muck so we could find some shelter on the mainland from the next incoming storm due on 24th June.
Caolas Mor
Caolas Mor anchorage
Castle Bay Marina
