L’ile d’Yeu – the island of Tuna
This little island is a real paradise and probably one of our favourites on the Maritime Coast. We visited on our journey South and on our return North, with the wind giving us a tricky entrance into Port Joinville both times. Thank goodness for Nicks ability to turn in tight spaces and his reversing skills. We didn’t cycle this time but did want to explore the Cote Sauvage, so we took a bus to La Pointe du But and walked the beautiful western coastline via La Meule and through the lovely pine forests back up to Port Joinville. We visited Le Vieux Chateau, a fortress erected ion a rocky outcrop and was used as a early warning first line of defence for the island if it was attacked from the sea from the north and the west. We stopped for a drink in La Meule, and as we continued up the path we came across a recoding and photo shoot in progress with a quartet of musicians. A magnificent back drop for their singing. We didn’t stay too long but continued along the path toward the lovely beaches of L’Anse des Fontaines for our picnic. It was a great spot for a picnic once we found some shade but the water was still very chilly so only a paddle this time.
The bus timetable takes a bit of understanding but it is colour coded and although the bus may change its colour code to suit an outward or a return journey, it is an efficient system. Best not to leave it too late use on the way back as Nick found out. They do not run so frequently in the evening as they do in the morning!
There is also a daily market (not highly recommended) a wonderful fish shop that provides take away ready-made delicious fish dishes as well as fresh fish and seafood of all sorts. We also found out the this island was once renowned for its tuna fishing especially the albacore tuna. (often used for sushi) The benefits of Red tuna and white tuna are hotly debated by the local folk but apparently it is the red tuna that gives most flavour. The little tuna museum showed off its smoking skills and tuna curing processes although we were not really tempted to buy – perhaps next year we will enjoy a fully cured piece of tuna.
Departing Port Joinville we had a beautiful sail across to Noirmoutier. Not our favourite place as rafting is always required in L’Herbaudiere and on this occasion we were 4th boat out. Makes for an uneasy night, so we only pottered ashore to pay our bill and set off fairly early the next morning for Piriac Sur Mer. A pleasant sail ensuring we stayed clear of the wind farms and their exclusion zones but had to motor the last few miles as the wind had dropped. A pleasant stay in Piriac before departing in a flat calm with little wind to visit and hopefully stay in L’Algol harbour on Hoedic. It has an interesting method for accommodating as many vessels as possible in such a small space – the daisy chain - using one huge tethered buoy but it gave Nick a chance to fly the drone and capture some amazing shots. It was a delightful little island and we had a good walk around (its tiny at only 800 mtres wide by 2,500 mtres long) and although it’s part of the line of granite crests that stretch from Le Croisic peninsula to Ile de Groix it is covered in beautiful sandy beaches – and we both paddled deeply (so nearly swam) in the crystal clear cold waters. On our walk around the island we discovered many possible anchoring spots depending on the wind direction and the potential for the brise de terre.
We headed off the next day to Huat in zero winds so motored over there and anchored in Salus beach. It was a little busy in the bay but we took the dinghy ashore and after a brief walk around the island, stopped for a galette and a glass of refreshing beer before returning to Whimbrel and heading for Sauzon in La Belle Ile – our favourite harbour. We picked up our allotted buoys, rowed ashore for a shower and watched the sun go down over the hilltops with a lovely chilled G&T. We stayed for 2 nights but didn’t embark on any big walks this time. As the tide receded in the late morning we scrubbed the bottom and enjoyed the warm sunshine, warm shallow water and after another shower ashore enjoyed a beer before heading back on board for supper and another beautiful sunset. We really love this island and will return again soon.
We were now on a bit of a mission to catch the tides and keep the weather gods happy for our return to the UK. So we generally only stopped in marinas and harbours for one night before moving on. A great sail from Sauzon to Port Louis after a delightful coffee stop anchorage just off the Pointe de Poulains to await the tide for Port Louis.
Another cracking sail from Port Louis to Ste Marine with 2 dolphin pods sighted. Then we departed early to catch the tides up to St Evette to await the tidal gate for Raz de Seine. An enjoyable evening with plenty of on water activity to keep us amused as novices came in trying to catch buoys. Departing St Evette for Camaret Sur Mer we transited the Raz without any traumas but it was a bit grey and mizzley and we had to motor sail most of the way. Our speed was slowing and we decided we needed to investigate the prop for weed when we arrived in Camaret. So anchoring off I did a quick dive and cleared the prop. Water was cool but not too bad and a lovely hot shower on board sorted things. We stayed 2 nights at anchor – Nick found the anchorage a bit too rolly for his comfort and then with the wind forecast to increase we headed into Camaret Nautique for the 3 nights of high winds and rain. We were lucky to bump into Keith and Jill and their crew from LaLa Salama who were on their way South to join the Arc Rally. We had some fun meet ups and wished them well on their voyage South and their exciting adventures to come.
We departed Camaret on 22 July – for L’AberWrach and took a buoy in the river for the night. The residual swell and dark skies of the aftermath of the storms made the trip unpleasant and with little wind we had to motor sail again. We also decided not to use the Port Sall passage as the swell was around 1 – 2 metres and we were not happy with the conditions.
Leaving L’AberWrac’h next morning, we had a cracking sail, via the Ile de Batz passage, with blue skies and an amazing display from the local dolphins and seabirds. We spotted a minke whale interacting with the dolphins too. Although we intended to get to Trebourdan for the night we realised we would miss the tidal gates so headed for Roscoff intending to stay only one night. Which we did. After provisioning as far as possible with the limited options in Roscoff we then headed for Ploumanac’h for an explore and a couple of nights stay.
What a fantastic ending to our trip to France for 2025. It really is a beautiful little harbour and we now realise that our next visit will include a settling on the lovely sandbanks to the side of the narrow channel up to the harbour. The fantastic rock structures and moody chateau at the entrance as well as the exciting entrance and docking procedures made for the end of a super day and a great departure point for us to head home via Guernsey and Alderney.
We still had a couple of great days sailing ahead of us including the exciting trip up from St Peter Port in Guernsey via the Swinge to Alderney. A couple of learning points: possibly leave a little later than first possible timing to reduce the impact of the overfalls outside Beaucette and of course up through the swinge itself. Secondly in the swinge, if on the same tidal references, stand on for a little longer through the overfalls to get a better tidal angle through to the end of the Alderney breakwater.
It was an easy channel crossing with decent winds although we did receive the “Collision” radio call from a rather overzealous French Coastguard lookout from Cherbourg despite being 22 miles offshore. Needless to say there was no near collision as we had already allowed the 0.5nm CPA and the vessel was passed even before the call! This year we used the tides to our advantage to get through Hurst Narrows but next year we will try to sail the rum line – remember the tides though!