Whimbrel - Heading Home

So we started our trip south down the Eastern Irish coast. Stopping in Carrickfergus we took the excellent train service into Belfast to visit the incredible Titanic Exhibition. We also took a super walk to the Lighthouse at Whitehaven, along the Blackhead Path one of Northern Islands best coastal walks for seeing just a snapshot of the rocky ice hewn landscape. We even saw 2 examples of “erratics” known locally as Wrens Eggs. These are boulders which have been transported and deposited by a glacier and are generally of a rock type different from the bedrock on which they sit.

The trip into Belfast set me thinking about the number of places with Bally in their name. Ballymena, Ballybogey and Ballymoney to name but a few. Apparently the word Bally is derived from the Gaelic Baile na meaning “place of”. Intriguing to consider the origins of Ballymoney!

Blackhead Path Whitehaven

More Blackhead Path

Wrens Eggs

Titanic Quarter

Titanic Exhibition

Leaving Carrickfergus we crossed over to Bangor to get an easy passage to Strangford Lough although we had wanted to visit The Isle of Man and sail through the Menai Straits and return down the Welsh coast we thought the weather and tides looked a bit unfavorable. So having missed the Lough on our way north we really wanted to visit this iconic Irish sailing area. And what a truly beautiful Lough. Visiting Quoile and anchoring off Ringhaddy Sound for lunch we spent our last night in Portaferry marina opposite Strangford, topping up on supplies.

Leaving Portaferry we popped into Ardglass for the night before heading off early to sail to Howth on 17th August. An interesting sail taking us passed the Eye of Ireland, a bird sanctuary close to the coast where puffins were known to breed and the guillemots, razorbills, terns and fulmars in their thousands were teaching their young to fish and dodge the yachts in their way. We had chosen Howth as Storm Betty was snapping at our heels and we were very thankful we had access to this sheltered and well-equipped marina. With the winds whipping over the hills we were protected from the worst of the blasts although it still saw us heeling over at 20 degrees alongside! We ventured out the next day and enjoyed a walk around the numerous fish markets and local delicacy stalls in the open market. Dublin bay prawns for lunch with fresh sourdough and a glass of white wine on board we felt was a great recompense after our stormy night. The winds returned to a more manageable breeze and we took a delightful walk around the periphery of the island. We were also privileged to watch the Irish national laser dinghy championships being held in the clubhouse and marvel at the stamina and athleticism of so many of these dinghy sailors.

Quoile Yacht Club

Portaferry

Strangford Ferry

Strangford

Ardglass

Ardglass is tight at low tide

Sunrise after leaving Arklow on our epic 190 miles south

We departed Howth for Arklow on 22 August and had a fast and fun sail all the way there. Flat seas and a gentle 4 gave us a superb kick around the headlands and we sailed into Arklow at 8pm. Pondering our best route South we thought we would really like to visit the Isles of Scilly again and the current forecast looked good. So, we geared up for the longest passage of our trip and with a decent weather window decided to do this trip directly with no further stops in Ireland. Knowing we were going to hit a couple of foul tides, we were still annoyed to see our speed at Carnsore point drop from averaging 6 knots to 2.7kts. Oh that light house at Tusker Rock just would not go away and fade into the distance and we became convinced we were towing it south.

As night fell the two of us had supper together and then split into our 2 hour watches. We prepared snacks and flasks of hot chocolate for the oncoming crew and with 2 reefs in the main and one in the headsail we sailed peacefully through the night. Pods of dolphins kept us company and I have never seen the milky way so clearly or enjoyed the constant changing of the night sky with meteors, shooting stars and numerous satellites. Avoiding fishing vessels and cruise ships kept us alert on our watch and the night soon passed. I was lucky to have the dawn watch and see the sun rise over the distant North Cornish coastline. However our speed had dropped and the wind was now directly on our nose and due to get up to a Force 7 locally 8 later. At 0900, with our trip to the Isles of Scilly put on hold and huge rain and thunder clouds around us we relayed our intentions to Falmouth Coast guard and crossed the Longships TSS now heading for Newlyn. Rounding lands end and feeling that another of our big headlands had been passed, we berthed in Newlyn at 4pm. 190 miles sailed and motorsailed over 36 hours and we felt we deserved a rum. Our first venture back onto English soil in 2 years.

Longships light house and Lands End

Bank holiday Monday we decided to sail to St Anthony’s Cove just south of the entrance to the Helford River, rounding the fearsome Lizard point in an easy swell in a northerly wind. We took a mooring buoy there and had a peaceful and enjoyable night in this cove. Waking to grey skies and little visibility we took a phone call that changed our rambling plans to return along the South Coast at an easy pace. We quickly packed up and motored around to Falmouth grateful to receive a berth alongside in Mylor for a few nights. I travelled back to Fareham and was fortunate to spend the last few days with my mother. Pleased to see me and hear of our adventures she gradually slipped away on 4 September. Making a few immediate arrangements I then travelled back to Falmouth on 6th September to help sail Whimbrel back to our home port in Gosport. Well that blew away the cobwebs with a few longer passages along the South Coast. Putting into the River Fowey on 7th September, we then left the next morning for Dartmouth – a 50 mile sail in light winds and stayed a couple of days. We had a bit of a plumbing issue on board….not a pleasant task!

Leaving Dartmouth for Weymouth on 10th September we crossed Lyme Bay in ever-thickening fog and rounded Portland Bill on the inner passage having not seen it all until we were 60 metres off shore and travelling at 8kts. An exciting final headland rounding for us. We spent the night in Weymouth and topped up our supplies before heading to Gosport on the afternoon tide. Light winds to begin crossing Weymouth bay allowed us to fly our pretty red genoa for a couple of hours before freshening winds suggested we roll that one away and raise our main with a reef in and use the main genoa. Crossing Bournemouth Bay and watching the Needles come closer gave us a chance to reflect on our epic 2 years away. Anchoring off Hurst Spit in calm waters ended our trip in the most perfect way.

We have felt so privileged to have seen and experienced so much of our beautiful country and some of Eire too, with our comfortable and sturdy cruiser Whimbrel. The rain and storms of Scotland have all faded into the background and our abiding memories, assisted with photographs are of the beautiful blue days, the lovely people and fellow cruisers we have encountered, the amazing and abundant wildlife, the helpful marina staff and the lovely warm welcome we received from our friends at Keyhaven as we meandered up the river to the quay for a quick visit.

So looking forward to the adventures that next year holds for us