Whimbrel - To the isles of Scilly

18 April – 1 May 2022

Looking at weather forecasts and enjoying the breeze from the East we decide to continue our heading west and set sail for the River Fowey on 18th April. It is still really chilly on the water so we were dressed for winter and have to admit that at least 4 layers plus hats were needed for this short trip of 20 miles. Once in Fowey we moored on the mid-river pontoons and enjoyed a couple of days of walking and relaxing, catching up on our homemade cream tea and seeking out suitable hostelries to sample some beer in the sunshine.

Then we started planning our trip to the Isles of Scilly, working on various options of departing from Falmouth or Newlyn, trying to work out the best wind (or no wind!) and knowing that the easterlies we had would give us a good run to the isles if they held. Of course, they died so we opted for a trip to Falmouth and a tentative departure the following week for the Isles. What a super decision that turned out to be. We sailed with a brilliant quarter wind of 24 Kts all the way into Falmouth and anchored in the bay just outside the harbour pontoons. After this cracking sail the wind calmed and the next day turned into a laundry day! Wow how can the two of us create so much washing in just 2 weeks? New regime will be initiated – there will be a limit on the number of items worn and sailing, going ashore and walking gear will fall into the same category. We have become proper liveaboards.

The last time we were in Falmouth we had been storm bound for 3 days and being on a timeline had not had a chance to explore the upper reaches of the Fal as we wanted to press on to the Helford River. As we are not too time bound now, we decided on a few days exploring this beautiful river. We motored upstream via St Just to look at the possibility of anchoring there before making a run for the Isles of Scilly. It was pretty full of home moorings although there were a couple of suitable anchoring spots just to the South. Testing our nerve and relying on the swing keel we cut across the large expanse of open water – phew just made it with 0.6 showing on the depth sounder before rounding the first hard astarboard mark and entering a beautiful treelined river bank and after the bustle of Falmouth the peace and quiet enchanted us. Up past King Harry Ferry and the recently laid fish and mussel farms we left the Fal and motored on into the Truro river until we reached the pontoon just south of Malpas. What a wonderful, natural spot. A heronry close to the river divide gave us endless hours of pleasure watching the stately hunting style of these birds. In the evening the fish jumped and we were hoping for an invasion of mackerel, however the waters are still too cold at just 12.4 to 13 degrees. We discovered that the on the banks of the Fal, just around the corner from us the local landowner had developed a tea plantation, growing Darjeeling on the sunny, well watered south facing slopes. However, a quick glance a the price of this delicacy left us enjoying our usual cup of Yorkshire tea in the mornings!

Leaving the next morning we motored on up to Malpas that now has a walkashore pontoon and welcomes visitors. There is water but you will need an extremely long hose or a couple of good water containers and no electricity. The harbour staff are very friendly and will help out with berthing and a trip to town if you are stuck without a dinghy. There is also an excellent café with food at the end of the jetty, The heron Inn is just up the hight street and the new showers are hot and clean.

A walk along the river and round the headland to Tresillian (meaning “a place of eels”) gave us a good leg stretch and a thirst quenching beer at the Wheel Inn – a wonderful 600 year old thatched roof pub that serves excellent beers and wine whatever time of day you arrive. The menu looked pretty good too but we didn’t stop for that. Gin seems to be the thing to drink at the moment and I don’t believe I have ever seen such an array of the same spirit in the local pubs, bars, cafes and shops in this part of the world, except in Scotland where of course it is whisky.

A walk to Truro the next day was a bit of an eye opener for us as we saw traffic and many people all together in one place. We beat a hasty retreat and returned to our peaceful mooring and planned the trip to Newlyn for our jumping off trip to the Isles of Scilly.

On our last morning just as we were about to cast off Nick spotted an otter. We watched him for a few moments as he looked around for food but then disappeared quickly. What a moment! We left Malpas and the River Fal on Sunday 24 April at around midday to catch the tide and make the best of the easterly wind but ended up motorsailing a fair way as the rolling waves and limited wind set the main snatching and catching…..noisy and uncomfortable.

Arriving in Newlyn was interesting. The very helpful harbourmaster can follow your progress from about 20 miles out but can only communicate via radio as you enter the harbour walls. It is a true fishing port with I believe the largest fish market in the South West of England on the quay. The fishing boats came in and out every hour of the night, emptying their catch into the large bays and engines revving and loaders shouting did not make for a peaceful night but it’s a great little port and they will never turn you away if the weather turns. The shower there is interesting……just saying!

Ever watchful

Forever young

Malpas Pontoon

Abandoned Boathouse

River Fal aft, Truro River Forward

RNSA virtual Pontoon

Old Lifeboat station - The Lizard

An 0600 departure the next morning left us with 36 miles to travel again in roly-poly seas so sailing under just the headsail and using the motor to keep our speed up we made our ETA at the entrance to St Marys at 1230 and following the clear guidelines in the various almanacs found a pick-up buoy in the harbour and had some lunch. The wind over tide at Penninis Head was rather jaunty with breaking seas and Solent like chop! Peter Fisher had joined us for the trip to the Scillies so it seemed appropriate to have a rum and ginger to celebrate our first visit to the Islands.

We spruced up and launched the dinghy to visit the harbour office find out what the latest weather forecast said and hoped it was different from ours. (it wasn’t). Walked to the co-op for some essential supplies and then headed back to Whimbrel for supper. Wonderful chilli cooked by Nick, with copious amounts of red wine and the remainder of the wonderful cheese given to us by Fiona followed….so did an early night.

The wind picked up over the next few days with strong Easterlies so we resorted to making use of the local harbour trip boats and visited the Islands for long walks, a few beers, picnics, ice cream and the occasional coffee. Three days of walking – over 24 miles covered and I cannot begin to describe these truly wonderful islands. At every stage of the tide, at every hour of the day or night and at every corner or headland we walked around, a new and extraordinary vista opened up to us. We have taken some photographs but the sheer beauty of these low lying offshore islands needs to be seen.

The Isles of Scilly have a most interesting history and archaeological findings suggest that there has been human life on the islands for at least 4,000 years. However there is some evidence to suggest that there were humans here, way before then perhaps from the Mesolithic (8,000 – 4,000BC) and the Neolithic (4,000 – 2,500BC) periods. How the first humans arrived here is sheer speculation but there is some thought that they may have walked here via the lost land of Lyonesse which linked the Scillies to Cornwall. However there is much evidence of occupation during the Bronze Age (2,500 – 700BC) and with careful excavation conducted during the last 100 years or so many of the entrance graves, menhirs or cairns can be found on most of the larger islands. There is a real sense of peace and utter stillness at these cairns and for me, it is possible to sense the immense history of these islands. Roman round houses and jewellery and evidence of early Christian chapels have also been found and Benedictine monks were known to have built and established the priory on Tresco in 10th Century AD.

As with all islands and the development of water craft the Isles of Scilly became entangled with trade, piracy, fishing, shipbuilding, wrecking and conflict at various stages but today their economy is mainly based on tourism. Over the years, its strategic importance has waxed and waned and its beguiling but treacherous waters have ensured interest from the crown, rich and powerful families and those with a more philanthropic approach.

The flowers of the islands are varied, with some being the same as Cornwall but many are more exotic and have come from far flung places – New Zealand and South Africa. The wild flowers in the hedgerows and the planted fields of bulbs are a delight and we have been so lucky to see some of them flowering at their best. There is an App that can help with flora identification and I really need to download it and use it. I’m fed up of saying those succulent thingies which produce large spiky flowers ( Aeonium). The delicate deep coloured gladioli and vibrant mesembryanthemum are just beautiful and although we missed a trip into the gardens at Tresco I understand there are real beauties in there too.

And of course the birds. I’m not really a twitcher but I love to see the birds hunting and scavenging for food for their young and hear their heartbreaking calls as they dive into the sea for fish or fight off intruders into their patch. I’ve not yet seen the promised puffins but I am ever hopeful…..

Nor have I seen the red squirrels on Tresco but I have seen seals and dolphins, crabs and silvery fish (not at the café!) and Nick spotted a long eel like fish sliding past the boat when he was on anchor watch. It could have been an eel or a sea snake.

We are currently anchored in Green Bay off Bryher, a peaceful spot where we can swing around on the anchor and as the tide flows out we will sit gently on the bottom and have a stable night. Admin and boat jobs tomorrow as we watch the weather and plan the next stage of our trip. Thinking the wind wont allow us to get to Ireland we will probably head for St Ives and then into Hayle and maybe Padstow too before heading West or North again.